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I Can See It In Your Eyes - Blucher vs. Bal

Posted by Liz J. on Jul 12th 2017

If you browse the men's shoes on our site, you'll see terms like "Blucher", "Oxford", "Derby", and "Balmoral". What do these terms mean?

Blucher

Alden Men's Plain Toe Blucher

  • Referred to as a "Derby" in the UK
  • Open lacing system, in which eyelets sit on flaps stitched directly to the outside of the shoe, unrestrained.
  • Seen as less formal than Balmorals. There is some debate as to whether or not Bluchers are appropriate with a suit, but many Americans will agree that a Blucher is formal enough for business attire

Balmoral

Alden Men's Cap Toe Bal Oxford Shell Cordovan

  • Referred to as an "Oxford" in the UK
  • Closed Lacing system, Eyelet flaps are stitched over and across the vamp.
  • Because of its sleeker silhouette, Balmorals are seen as dressier shoes and are generally appropriate for various formal occasions.

Many retailers and even shoe manufacturers use the terms lightly or interchangeably. It is not common to find a blucher shoe labeled "oxford" or to find more than one term in the shoe description. This is why it is important to be able to distinguish between the two yourself. It may be confusing at first, but after a while you'll be able to spot the difference without thinking about it.

Here's how to tell the difference: look for the attachment of the eyelet flaps. If they are anchored into the shoe with stitching, you're looking at a Balmoral. If they are detached at the bottom or an upside-down V shape is formed at the bottom of the lacing system, you've got a pair of Bluchers on your hands.

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Above is a close-up of the lacing on a Balmoral shoe. Note the distinct "V" shape of the lacing and how the lacing system is flush with the rest of the shoe upper.

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Above is a close up of the lacing on a Blucher shoe. Note that the flaps at the bottom of the lacing are detached from the shoe upper.

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